Lockwood

Opening a restaurant in Chicago is probably one of the most complicated processes on Earth.  We are a city built of neighborhoods.   Every neighborhood standing for a different ideal and housing a generally different demographic.  We are also the midwestern hub for business and tourism.  So what do you do when your restaurant is serving Contemporary American food to patrons that may not be so temporary?  

I discovered this complex scenario during my latest dining outing to Lockwood (17 E. Monroe, in the Palmer House Hilton).  Housed inside one of Chicago's most legendary hotels (Franz Ferdinand stayed there) directly across from Millenium Park, you would think Lockwood was in one of the most glamourous locations possible.  But alas, most local Chicagoans aren't doing much visiting to Millenium Park, nor are they staying in the Palmer House Hilton (for obvious reasons...why stay in a hotel when you live 5 minutes away?).  I don't mean to sound too full of myself, but when you go into a restaurant that offers a $95 10-course tasting menu, you expect to be surrounded by a certain crowd.  The crowd I was surrounded by consisted of people wearing their favorite college team's sweatshirt, and a table of 3 discussing 'what is a martini.'  I guess what I'm trying to say is, you don't go to the Miss America pagent looking for 5's or 6's...

Nevertheless, I found the food to be very good.  I opted for the 5-course tasting menu which offered a very nice progression of flavors and creative presentation.  The epitome of which was epitomized by my first course, a deconstructed buffalo chicken wing served with a shot of Corona.  The following courses were Octopus, Sea Bass, Lamb Chop, and for dessert, Pear served with brown butter ice cream and streusel.  Each couse was cooked very well with great complimentary flavors amongst the dish.  And although I would have liked to see a slighlty larger portion of the Lamb Chop, I left very satisfied.

The atmosphere on the other hand presented another juxtaposition.  I found the atmosphere to be more congruent with the hotel opposed to the food.  Had Lockwood chose to open in a different neighborhood, such as the West Loop or even a free standing location in the nearby South Loop, I feel as though the decor would have been catered more toward the contemporary nature of the cuisine.  That being said, I'm sure for the guests of the Palmer House Hilton, a dimly lit and muted toned restaurant is the end all be all of fine dining and romance.  Now, I can't guarantee that everyone in the restaurant was from out of town, but it's been my observation that Chicagoans dress appropriately based on the quality of food and restaurant they are attending.  Don't mean to stereotype, but I have to believe that to be true.

Food: 4 of 5

Service: 5 of 5

Atmosphere: 3 of 5

Overall: 12 of 15=80%